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Culture Traditional forms of Art - Professions textliles Epirus Metsovo

Women with traditional dresss in the square of Metsovo

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06/09/2007
Woven garments – clothing

comitech

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Those commonly referred to as garments are divided into two large categories a) women’s and b) men’s. Each garment may indicate: a) social position (e.g. engaged, married, newly married, widow etc., b) quality and aesthetics of each region (everyday, wedding celebration), c) social class (urban, country). Garments convey information regarding the social and personal identity of people. Within these there is a slow evolution of types that are carried over with difficulty to a standard model that proved to be functional.In Metsovo the basic elements of women’s clothing were the klisto, the dress, the flokata and the apron. The klisto was a type of heavy blouse, with long sleeves ending in a tongue and worn over the skirt which is a sleeveless dress. The klisto is usually of valuable material, with gold-embroidery.
The dress is worn over the klisto, made of heavy silk material, and comprised of a tight bodice and long skirt to the ankles. It has long wide sleeves that are fixed above the arm in order to show the sleeves of the klisto. It is open at the neck in order to show the front part of the klisto.
The flokata is a characteristic element of the Metsovian attire, male or female, even though men stopped wearing it since 1950. It is a narrow sleeveless garment which in Metsovo is called sarika or siggouni, made of thick woolen material, the sagiaki. It is worn by all women regardless of family or social state, all days, even on special occasions such as a wedding. The edge of the flokata is decorated with a strip of red baize, a distinctive element of recognition of the residents of Metsovo, a concession that was granted by the Sultan to the residents of Metsovo in the 17th century to distinguish them from the other residents of Ipirus. Later on the distinctive red edge became a manner of recognizing the various classes, e.g. the noblewomen had a double red strip on their flokata, the women of the middle class only had one. Daily wear was designed in order to facilitate the movement of the women during their household chores.
The attire for formal visits was vividly coloured, more impressive with a monochrome dress made of wool material and velvet top-stitching. The festive dress was made of black velvet. The attire of the single woman was simple, comprised of the skirt, a very simple klisto, flokata and wool woven apron and the kerchief. The attire of the elderly woman was dark in colour, without embroidery, with a simple kerchief and a simple apron. Widows and grieving women only wear black. The wedding garments were especially luxurious with a klisto, dress, apron and elaborate headband.
They all wore wool slips in the winter and cotton in the summer. The undershirts were knit of wool. Finally the socks were knit of wool and embellished because they wore them in the house without shoes. 1) Metsovian festive attire characterized by impressive simplicity and held in the Peloponnesus Museum of Folklore. It is comprised of an interior light blue skirt with sagiaki of the loom with short embroidery on the hemline. Inside it has a vest with black velvet braiding decorated with gold cordon. The dress has many pleats in a silk striped fabric and black silk cordons in all the openings. The attire is completed with a purple silk apron with gold cordons that form rosettes and trees of life. The coverall is the sarika, a sleeveless siggouna of black sagiaki of the loom decorated at the openings with red ribbons and light blue silk cordons. The shoes are made of red velvet fabric. The headdress is a gold-embroidered kalpaki and koukaki, black triangular kerchief with bibila and multi-coloured silk.
2) Metsovitiki everyday attire comprised of a klisto with sleeves that reach the elbows and a skirt (sleeveless dress) made of wool material that has been water beaten in a multi-colour checked pattern. Everyday wear is characterized by simplicity and allows comfortable movement within the home, as the woman did her chores.
Men’s attire. The types of male clothing are more or less common in the entire Balkan region. Two basic types of attire are distinguished, the type close to the Balkan standard and the one close to the western-European standard. Variations are seen in the length, width and colour of clothing. It must be said though that the determination of specific shapes of clothing for men in order to distinguish the population groups of the same area is difficult.
In addition male attire evolved much faster because of the movement of male population abroad but also within the country. Without ever abandoning the traditional handmade attire, however from the 19th century European attire dominates, accompanied by the red fez, and in certain areas the red fez was obligatory, an element mandated by ottoman legislature until the years of liberation.
Basic elements of attire: shirt, foustanela, vraka, kapa or flokata or another coverall, gileki or meintani, socks, undershirt, bourazana, sash, fez, tsarouxia.
2) Metsovite everyday attire with the primary characteristic element being the black sleeveless coat and the pleated skirt, dimita. Every pleat is cut separately in triangles called lokses or laggiolia. This dress is found with a black shirt.
3) Metsovite festive attire of handmade local materials. It is directed toward the needs of the Metsovite highlander. It has a silk black shirt, black dimito wool foustanela, tsamantari namely a black wool vest decorated with silk cordons, brown wool sash with white stripes, a fur cap. The legs were covered with black gonatares, socks and black tsarouxia.