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Culture Traditional forms of Art - Professions textliles Epirus Pogoni

Women with traditional dress of Pogoni
Women with traditional dress of Pogoni

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Woven garments – clothing


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The Pogonisian attire is quite complex. It includes the shirt or routi, which is quite wide and long. Initially it went down to the ankles but gradually its length was shortened and it reached the shin. It has wide sleeves, a deep opening at the chest and a wide collar worn outside the sagiaki and the doulama. The collar and its hemline were visible and that is why they were decorated.
The seggouni in Pogoni refers to the coverall worn by single women and widows, while the sagiaki is the coverall worn by the woman on her wedding day and keeps it for her entire lifetime. The seggouni and the sagiaki of Pogonian attire are white, but in the western villages they were black for the widows and elderly women. The seggouni and the sagiaki differ in their décor (the seggouni is decorated with white cordons while the sagiaki with black) but also in its weave. The seggouni is made of cotton, white by water beating, woven by women, while the sagiaki is made of purchased cloth. For their dowries women sewed 2 or 3 sagiaki for festive and formal occasions and many seggouni which were the garments of single women and were used by all during their daily chores.
Another basic element of the Pogonian attire is the sash, which reached a length of 4m. and was woven by women with white yarn and then was dyed black, ended in fringe with tassels, had an embossed texture and was folded at the waist with the opening upward in order to create a type of pocket for small objects. It was wound around the waist many times. There was also another sash, the zona, very long up to 14 m., and this was made of wool yarn, dyed red, and sometimes green and yellow.
In Pogoni the sagiakenia apron prevailed, was used for festive and bridal occasions up to 1920 and silk ones prevailed afterward. It is two-ply and decorated lengthwise with cordons. The sagiakenia aprons are supported in the zona and do not have apron-strings. They are a significant element of the bridal attire but also as long as the married woman is considered young. Also very prevalent was the woven apron, the “second one” which was two-ply of purchased yarns, with stripes and apron-strings. It was the primary garment for daily chores.
Doulamas is called every type of short coverall, with long sleeves, with characteristic ends called kapakia. Their name differs depending on the quality of material or its origin. Silk ones were called alatzades which were also bridal garments, velvet ones are called katifedes and the ones reeled off were called politiki. They were sewn by tailors and decorated with cordons peripherally. It is lined with a second cloth in its interior. Women always had the kapakia raised and only lowered them when they danced.
The most impressive element of Pogonian attire is the ombolia. It is a ribbon 3-4 m. in length that is wound around the head of women in a specific way. It was made of various materials, linen, canvas, silk. It has a characteristic yellow colour, dyed with saffron. At the ends of the ombolia are seen two red ribbons, woven with cotton yarn. One is called rousa and is the end which when wound ends approximately at the temple. The other end is called founda and hangs at the neck.
Socks are divided into kaltsopropoda and patounes. The first are comprised of the sock that covers the shin below the knee where it is tied with a string, down to the ankle. Kaltsopropoda are decorated with embroidery. They were replaced at the beginning of the 20th century by the patounes, white knitted socks, with coloured embroidery at the ends and toes.
Up to the 20th century over the doulama another external coverall was used. These were the bridal panosagiako, the flokati (undecorated sleeveless seggouni), anderi (black sleeveless seggouni) with plain decoration. Festive dress of the 19th century from Pogoni. The white characteristic headband prevails, completed with elaborate jewelry dominated by the double-headed eagle. In reality it is a bridal dress worn by the bride after the wedding. It is comprised of: ρrouti, namely the white cotton shirt, inside a striped vest, segiaki, namely a long wool dress open vertically in the front decorated on the chest with brown felt and smoked buttons, silk branched doulamas embroidered with silk cordons, outer segiaki decorated with red tassels. The dress is completed by a black sash at the waist with long black tassels and wool apron, sagopodia, which ties with a thin black braid. The head is covered by a white bolia with two vertical thin ribbons on the ends.Male attire of Pogoni: it is characterized by simplicity in shape and harmonic symmetry that is created through the antithesis of white – black colour and domestic woven material. It is comprised of the white cotton shirt with wide sleeves; the pitouri namely a white woven wool pant, sleeveless black wool vest decorated with silk ribbons and knit silk buttons facing each other, a black wool dimito sash with fringe. On the back is worn the draping “flokata” made of black wool sagiaki of the loom. On their feet they wore brown leather tsarouxia with black tassels. On the head they wore a black cap. The attire is completed by a silver chain and staff. It is dated in the 19th century.